North Norfolk history

Cromer

Cromer owes its existence to the sea - a town kept buoyant by the fishing and holiday industries. But the resort's beginnings lie under the waves that make up half its hinterland.

There is no mention of Cromer in William the Conqueror's Domesday Book, only the village of Shipden - long since swallowed up by the erosion that carves the ever-changing map of the north Norfolk coast.

Shipden, and Cromer which followed it, provided a handy port of call midway along the harbourless stretch between Blakeney and Yarmouth. Fishing and shipborne freight - coal in, corn out - kept the town busy from medieval to Victorian times.

Cromer's early piers and jetties helped with the loading and unloading - before later became the focus for its new lease of life as a holiday hot spot. Georgian gentlefolk started it with their search for health-giving locations such as bracing seasides.

But it was the Victorians and the coming of the railways that really made Cromer popular - helped by the sentimental writings of journalist Clement Scott about the wonders of "Poppyland". The Victorian heydays are still there for modern trippers to enjoy - the pier, and the big hotels like the Hotel De Paris which towers over its landward end.

Also overlooking the seafront is a bust of Henry Blogg, Britain's most decorated lifeboatman. The coxswain of the Cromer boat won three gold medals - the lifeboatman's Victoria Cross - four silvers, the George Cross and the British Empire Medal during a 38-year career saving countless lives with seamanship and bravery until his retirement in 1947.

The guiding beam of Cromer lighthouse still shines from a hilltop which is also home to the golf club. Nearby is where the former Links Hotel used to stand - where Sir Arthur Conan Doyle hatched the idea for his classic novel The Hound of the Baskervilles. Cromer Hall, where he also used to visit, is said to be the inspiration for the hall featured in the Sherlock Holmes thriller.

 

Sheringham

The roots of Sheringham lie a mile and half inland in the village of Upper Sheringham.

Roman remains have been found on the superb vantage point over the coast, and its Scandinavian name as the home of Scira's people show some of the Viking, Saxon and Viking invaders who plundered the coast decided to stay.

It was only later that the town "moved" down to the shore, as Sheringham began to make its living from the sea. Fishermen spawned fish merchants, netmakers, rope spinners, curers and shopkeepers.

At the turn of the century Sheringham's 100-strong fisher fleet was bigger than Cromer's that since has overtaken it. And Sheringham was the centre for boatbuilding - fishing vessels and lifeboats alike, with craftsmen such as Lewis 'Buffalo' Emery producing boats using expert eye rather than any drawn plans. Among his creations is the 1894 Henry Ramey Upcher lifeboat, which can seen today in a seafront museum which is the shed where she was created.

Victorian times saw Sheringham getting tourist "overspill" from the neighbouring town of Cromer which was hitting its holiday heydays thanks to railway links. Sheringham station closed in 1967 but the link to Holt was rekindled by steam enthusiasts with the North Norfolk Railway that remains popular today.

The town was the first place in Britain to suffer a wartime air raid, on January 19 1915, when a German Zeppelin dropped two bombs in Wyndham Street and Priory Road.

Sheringham's pebble beach is as famous as its pebble-fronted cottages. Up until 1969 stones were picked off the beach for use in the pottery industry, before it was realised they were probably more important for keeping the sea at bay.

The "suburb" of Beeston Regis has the remains of an Augustinian priory, founded in 1197 and dissolved in 1539 after the abbots were accused of indulging in 'carnal and abominable' living. Its ecclesiastical role meant it too, like Upper Sheringham, Beeston was a dominant local settlement, until the 17th century when Sheringham began to become the focus for local life.

Holt

The name Holt is thought to come from the Saxon word meaning woodland, and there are still many wooded areas surrounding the town today.

It has a pretty, architecturally interesting town centre, which it is a pleasure to walk round, and the 14th century church of St Andrew’s and All Saints.

Holt is associated with the owl, and many of the local clubs use this symbol as their emblem, There is also the owl tea shop in the Market Place. Holt people are said to be called the “knowing ones”. An owl was disturbing local residents.

One story said it was put in a cattle pound, but not surprisingly it flew away, and another version, told in Rye’s History of Norfolk, is that the owl’s hooting so annoyed men working on the church that they pushed it up a water spout and left it to drown. The owl, however, managed to fly out of the top.

The exact date for the birth of Holt is unknown, but it is recorded in the Doomesday Book of 1086, when there were 60 men listed as living in Holt: 10 freemen, 24 bordars, two serfs (no women or children are recorded). There were also 90 sheep, 60 pigs a carthorse, five mills and a market.

Alice Perers, the wide of Sir John Nerford, became the mistress of Edward III while in the service of Queen Philippa. When the queen died, the king gave Alice all his late wife’s jewels and other valuables. In 1376 the Black Prince finally succeeded in banishing her, but she returned in 1377 during the King’s last illness and is said to have taken the rings off his fingers as he lay on his deathbed.

In 1461 Thomas Lord Roos, Lord of the Manor of Holt, was executed by the Yorkists for supporting the Lancastrian side in the War of the Roses.

1592 Plague strikes the little town, killing 64 people between February and August.

1650 Thomas Cooper, usher and probably headmaster of Greshams School, was hanged on Christmas day for his part in the Royalist Rebellion on behalf of Charles II. His bpdy was displayed on a gibbet outside the school.

1660 An outraged Puritan minister, John Bond, wrote to a local magistrate demanding action against some local people who had got up to something scandalous in the market place. We’ll probably never know exactly what went on, although it was probably a bit of play acting. Honoured Sir, wrote the minister. “I am credibly informed that there was a most horrid and prodigious misdemeanor committed in our town last week. There was, it seemth such obscenity and filthiness acted publicly in the face of the sun that I am ashamed to mention it.” He goes on to talk of people dressed up in bull’s hides, long poles with oyster shells decorating them and some abusing of local people with honest and sober reputations. It is not recorded whether the magistrate ever took any action.

1708 The town's present Georgian architectural character derives from the time of a great fire on May Day 1708. Much of the town was destroyed and had to be rebuilt, including the parish church of St Andrew’s.

1787 Nearly 80 years later Parson Woodforde of Weston Longville slept at the Feathers Hotel and described the town as being built in an "era of comely brick". He thought that hold "stood well" and was a"good decent town".

1789 On April 23, while the French were in the turmoil of revolution, the people of Holt were celebrating the recovery of George III from "his late state of insanity". 500 people dined in Holt marketplace on plum puddings and boiled beef, and there was a dance at the Shirehall in the evening.

1800 Riots in December 1800 against the high price of food, particularly flour.

1831 The census recorded 306 houses inhabited by 327 families, and by 1838 the population stood at 1700.

1960 Holt Air Crash, August 19. Two RAF planes collided over Holt. Seven airmen were killed.

Holt has never forgotten it. A raging electric storm, a terrifying explosion and burning wreckage raining down on rooftops and gardens. For 14,500 feet above north Norfolk two RAF jets a Victor aircraft and a Canberra had collided and exploded sending debris crashing to earth for miles around. Thirty years after the August 19, 1968 disaster in which Holt was miraculously spared from destruction a memorial service to remember seven airmen who died was held.

"I am at 13,500 feet and climbing," were the last words from the crew of Victor XH646 before radio contact was lost as the Marham-based plane climbed away from its station on a training exercise. It collided with a Canberra from RAF Bruggen in Germany. Both crews died.

Neither plane was carrying missiles, nuclear or conventional. PC Ian Jarvis, now retired, of Thompson Avenue, had only moved to Holt that weekend and had not taken up duty. "I made the first 999 call," he said. "It was quite incredible. When I got down Kelling Road the burning front cockpit of a Victor was there."

Today there are no physical scars from the terrible night 30 years ago. But in the pine woods of Holt Country Park a deformed pine tree bears testimony to where a body crashed to earth on a young tree thirty years ago.

Aylsham

This history is reprinted courtesy of Broadland District Council. For information about walks and cycle leaflets in Broadland contact Broadland District Council at Thorpe Lodge, Yarmouth Road, Norwich NR7 0DU or phone 01601 431133

 

An Aylsham street in the 1930s, and an early view of the market place in winter
It is thought that Aylsham’s history dates from around 500AD when a Saxon called Aegel (a common name) set up his homestead here. As Ham means homestead, the new village would have been known as Aegel’s Ham. About 300 years later, when the Danes arrived, the village would have been sufficiently well established to keep its Saxon name.

Aylsham’s known history dates back to pre-Norman times. It was recorded as Elesham in the Domesday Book and had around 2370 cultivated acres, 25 of meadow and 640 of woodland. The remaining 1000 acres was wild. Almost 1000 years on there have been so few changes to the area of the parish that today it covers some 4329 acres.

At the time of the Norman Conquest the manor was held by Guert, a noble of Danish origin and a large Norfolk landowner. It is thought that Guert was killed at Hastings and his estates became the property of William I. The manor of Aylsham was then bestowed to a Norman, Ralph Guader, Earl of Norfolk. When he too turned against King William the manor was taken back by the crown. From this time until the reign of Charles I it was held by the monarchy who granted it to a series of tenants.

Eventually, in 1372, the town of Aylsham and other manors and estates in Norfolk were bestowed to John of Gaunt by his father King Edward III. John of Gaunt was already Duke of Lancaster, and when he set up his Court of the Duchy of Lancaster in Aylsham it brought the area much greater importance. He became one of the most powerful noblemen in the country and was feared by the young King Richard II and the Commons. One of the many privileges he granted to local people was exemption from jury service outside the manor.

When John of Gaunt died in 1399 the manor was held by his widow and second wife, Catherine. On her death, his son Henry, by his first marriage to Blanche, held the manor. Henry had been King Henry IV since his father’s death and it was at this point that the Duchy of Lancaster merged with the crown.

When Charles I became King he held the manor but mortgaged it to the Corporation of the City of London. The King could never redeem this mortgage so it was sold in 1634 to Sir John Hobart of Blickling. The manor passed through the Earls of Buckinghamshire, along with the Blickling Estate, to the Marquesses of Lothian and then to the National Trust who are its guardians today.

During the 13th Century the worstead industry was the town’s main industry. The house book of the Bishop of Hereford has an entry in 1291 concerning the purchase of four yards of Aylsham linen at a cost of 18 shillings, a very large amount in those days. Manufacturing continued until the 18th century but sadly fell into decline.

In an attempt to revive the industry in 1779 the navigation channel along the Bure was opened to Coltishall. The revival did not succeed but it did mean that other goods such as coal, corn and timber could be moved easily. It also brought about the development of the boat building and stone masonry business in the early 19th Century. Unfortunately, after disastrous floods in 1912 the channel became so silted up that it could not be used.

Red Lion Street is full of interesting shops, many in 18th and 19th century houses. During the 19th Century this street alone had at least five public houses to choose from.

The Old Bank House is an attractive building dated 1646 where the banking of Copeman and Co was carried out until 1859.

The Bridewell is the house of correction built by Robert Marsham in 1543. It was used for vagabonds and prostitutes and later a lock-up for short term sentences. The original house was rebuilt in 1787 and used as a prison until 1825 when it was turned into offices.

The oldest house in Aylsham is the Manor House, dating around 1550, although it was restored by Bishop John Jegon in 1605. He had probably the largest number of servants in Aylsham. To a list of these a note was penned: "Most of these came gallant of the Bishop like butterflies in the spring but when they founde little hope of benefitt they staied not!"

On March 3, 1519, King Henry VIII granted a market on Saturdays and an annual fair to be held on March 12, which was the eve of the feast of St Gregory the Pope. It is thought this was confirmation of an earlier grant as reference to a market was made as early as 1296. A further grant was made in 1705 by Queen Anne to Sir John Hobart to hold a market "on Tuesday in every Weeke for ever in the Towne of Aylesham". The grant also gave permission for a fair to be held on the second Tuesday and Wednesday in September of every year and on the first Tuesday in October a hiring fair for servants and farm workers.

In the 18th and 19th centuries the market became the end of the turnpike road from Norwich to Aylsham. This brought more traffic and therefore more prosperity to Aylsham. Seventeen years later a turnpike road from Aylsham to Cromer was begun and this too, brought trade to the town. Undoubtedly, the market square played a very important part in people’s lives as not only was it a place to sell their wares but a chance to meet new and old friends. It is incredible to think that at 4pm on 22nd June 1897, 1700 people dined in the market place to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee. Today, main market day is Monday although stallholders can be seen in the market square on most days.

There are some very interesting buildings surrounding the Market Place. The Black Boys public house is referred to as early as 1655. Throughout its existence it has been an important meeting place for formal and social occasions. Nelson is said to have danced here in the Assembly Room, Parson Woodforde, the famous Norfolk diarist, ate here during the 1780s, in 1797 it became the home to a squadron of the Second Norfolk Yeomanry Cavalry and the local Justices sat here up to 1858 when the Town Hall was ready for use.

The Town Hall was begun in 1856/7 having its foundation stone laid by the Marquis of Lothian on Monday, 29th September, 1856. It has a mock regency doorway and was used as a corn hall as well as for public meetings. The Justices that moved to the building from the Black Boys remained until 1st August 1930 when the court was transferred to North Walsham. The first Parish Council were elected here on 4th December 1894 and after purchasing the building in 1908 used the building as their office and meeting place.

Barclays Bank has a plaque on a wall to the memory of Christopher Layer, born 1683. He was articled to Henry Rippengall, an Aylsham solicitor who lived at 1 Market Place. Christopher Layer married Elizabeth Elwin in 1709, an Aylsham girl. He was more famously known as the only militant Jacobite to come out of Norfolk and a faithful adherent to the House of Stuart. He visited the Young Pretender, Bonnie Prince Charlie, in Rome in 1721 and on his return plotted to put the Pretender on the throne. He was arrested for high treason and executed by hanging at Tyburn on 17th May 1723.

North Walsham

North Walsham nestles in the heart of rural North Walsham. Here you’ll find some decent shops and a lively Thursday market. North Walsham was established in Anglo-Saxon times.

It survived invasions of Vikings and Normans, becoming an important centre of the weaving trade in the middle ages, but a blow in 1600 could have been fatal. Early in the morning of June 25 a fire began. It raged through the little market town, and as the smoke cleared it became evident that the destruction was immense. More than 180 houses, 70 shops, the market with its cross and stalls, and many other buildings were destroyed. The church, luckily, survived without much damage, although its tower and steeple had more problems to come.

The fire is said to have started in the house of a “poor and lewd person” by the name of Dowle, who on fleeing was apprehended and put in jail.

The rebuilding of the town gave Sir William Paston the opportunity to buy up land cheaply and create his famous school, now a sixth form college. The free Grammar School opened in 1606 for “the training, instructing and bringing up of youth in good manners, learning and the true fear, service and worship of almighty God whereby they might become good and profitable members in the Church and Commonwealth”. The school’s most famous past pupil was Horatio Nelson.

Look out today in the town for St Nicholas Church, right in the middle of town and the Market Cross, towards the bottom of the market place.